Monday, October 24, 2011

The Big Dance

Mum, Dad and I watched THE game at the Embassy theatre in Wellington - a grand old cinema with one of the biggest screens in the Southern Hemisphere.

Two dedicated All Blacks supporters - and some guy we've never seen before in our lives...


The French team approach during the All Blacks haka


Go Piri! Go the ABs!


Richie finally gets to touch the Cup.

WAHOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

Tired, drained, but happy.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

It All Comes Down To This

Twenty-four years ago I remember watching the first-ever World Cup Final. The All Blacks won, as it was their God-given right to do so. I was twelve, and all was right in the world.

Rugby and me go way back. There's a photo of me aged 3, on Athletic Park (the legendary Wellington rugby ground), wearing little corduroy overalls and grinning at the camera. I remember seeing more than one game from high up in the Millard Stand, usually in a howling southerly. If we weren't at the park, we'd be warm and dry at home, watching the game on a Saturday afternoon with a roast cooking in the oven. Dad used to play at number 8 for club and university rugby, even when he was doing his PhD in North Carolina, and when I was 16, I wore his old Auckland Uni rugby jersey until it fell apart.

Twelve years ago I went to the final test match at the park, France-New Zealand. I cheered as the All Blacks demolished Les Bleus 54-7. Later that year, I got up one morning and asked Dad "How much did we beat them by?" I thought he was joking when he said we lost. Four years ago I walked into a bar in Paris and declared "Now you're going to see some real rugby". And we all know how that turned out.

This year, coming home for the World Cup was a no-brainer. Finally hosting this party in New Zealand has been even more fun than I expected. The crowds, the costumes, and the atmosphere - so many people caught up in something which has nothing to do with politics, suffering, war, or climate change. Sport has ultimate drama, the highs, the lows, the groin strains - but as we have learnt from bitter experience, if our team loses, the world does not stop turning. We just pick ourselves up from our hangovers and go to work the next day.

On Tuesday, Dad and I went to the National Portrait Gallery on the waterfront to see a photo exhibition of rugby players who had just come off the field. These were all club players, so real grassroots level. They were battered and bloodied, with the thousand-yard stare of a soldier who has just made it out of the trenches. My favourite was no 77: First Five Eighth for Southbridge, one cap, in June 2009. It was Dan Carter's first game of rugby after he got back from Perpignan. He hadn't been called back into the All Blacks yet, and fancied a game, so he pulled on his local club jersey. He looks normal in the photo, a bit grubby and hair ruffled, not the airbrushed and sponsored pretty boy we have gotten used to. Even in the professional era, the love of the game is the overriding thing.

I came home expecting to see some good rugby and enjoy the atmosphere. The pool games were fun, especially watching the try-fest against Canada. But history has taught me to be cautious. Dan Carter's injury made me nervous, and so it was inspirational stuff to see the team come back from the loss of a key player and hold firm against Argentina. I will never forget Piri Weepu in particular rising to the occasion and slotting kick after kick over those posts. The look of disgust on his face at his only missed kick said it all - this team has set high standards for themselves. During the Australia game, the Israel Dagg - Ma'a Nonu try eased my worry slightly, but I clung to my squishy rugby ball for 80 tense minutes and only relaxed once the final whistle blew. 

And now, we wait. Some people are saying that the final on Sunday night is as good as won. But we all know how unpredictable the French can be - and I've been burnt before, so I'm in an agony of anticipation. When I came home, I didn't dare to think the All Blacks would make it this far. Seeing the depth of talent in the squad, the passion in every single game and the way that they have bounced back from adversity to reach the final has made this trip even better than I was hoping. A win on Sunday night would be the icing on the cake.

Good luck boys - you've already done us proud.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

If You Don't Like The Weather In Auckland, Wait Five Minutes

Auckland highlights: Arriving in Auckland two days after the World Cup opens to a chilly downpour- and a general party atmosphere.
Auckland Airport. From September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip
Spending the day on Waiheke with Josh and Gosia, thankfully between showers.Seeing lots of other friends and family, who I don't have photos of here. Meeting some wonderful cats.

Auckland Art Gallery. From September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip
Wandering around Auckland and updating my mental map, in particular visiting the revamped Auckland Art Gallery, and exploring the new Wynyard Quarter. Auckland just keeps getting better and better. Making a pilgrimage to Eden Park!

Eden Park. From September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip
Eating wonderful food - Japanese at Soi, Malaysian at Mutiara, the best ham and cheese croissants I have ever eaten for breakfast at Chateaubriand in Devonport! Brunch at Shaky Isles, Kingsland, at Olaf's in Mt Eden. Lentil pie at Ripe. Having drinks at Dida's in Jervois Road. Eating the best roastbeef sandwich ever at Meola Kitchen in Pt Chev. Drinking far too much coffee. Finding an African café in Parnell with gluten-free afghans!

Chateaubriand Bakery in Devonport. From September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip
Catching the ferry to Devonport; going swing dancing with Claire; having a pedicure at East Day Spa (and watching a very blokey bloke have a manicure -hysterical); watching Ireland pound Australia a stone's throw from Eden Park, you could hear the road of the crowd out the window.

Woolly bombing in Devonport. From September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip
Still very fond of Auckland. Was a bit worried my umbrella wasn't up to it though!

Down by the Viaduct. From September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

18 October 2011: Postcard from Paekakariki

Paekakariki is a small settlement on a narrow strip of land between the looming hills and the sea, about 45 minutes north of Wellington. It's about three blocks wide and two kilometres long. It's got a fruit shop, a church hall and an over-priced general store, and it's also got a deli and a tattoo artist. There are at least three places where you can get a decent flat white, so it's not completely removed from civilization. It's also where my Dad lives.

I stood on the beachfront this morning, watching the high tide wash the rocks, and thinking what a great holiday it's been so far - and how quickly it's gone. I've got exactly two weeks left in the country before I head back into the Parisian winter - but I won't be thinking about that for the time being. I'll try to recap the last few weeks here and get up to date before I leave. But in the meantime here are some photos from this morning (you'll have to scroll down because Blogger is doing something funny to me):











































































































Looking south down the coast to Pukerua Bay
Looking north to Kapiti






All the photos so far: September 2011 - Rugby World Cup trip